When I want to be sentimental I'll grab great gramps jointer which also does a good job with lots of attention. While it is possible to find a Bedrock for a song at a garage sale or a flea market, it is uncommon. Unless you were to find a 607 in good to very good condition, I doubt that his replacement plane would be any better than his present tool. I'm not sure I followed that part about moving the plane side to side.
I've often wondered what it would be like to usea Japanese style jointer.
Though I guess it's amusing.
If you're not familiar with the technique of getting a true edge on a long(ish) board, David Charlesworth's DVD,Hand Tool Techniques Part 2: Hand Planing, (available at http://www.lie-nielsen.com) is very useful and has lots of detailed "how-to" information. I'm apparently struggling with a worn out wreck and don't have the good sense to know it. LV makes nice planes, but I don't think the bevel up design is quite as good for all purpose jointing as the LN/Bedrock.Glaucon.
planing width156mm.
The bestfor that in my experienceis the Clark and Williams wooden planes which can be had with VERY fine mouths that handle irregular grain--at the expense of not being able to use the same plane for hogging.
"So, as I said before, I think the poster has several options:1. There is actually a type study by dealer Bob Kaune that allows dating them, similarly to the dating of Bailey planes.
Maybe I'll get some photos and let the experts debate.
Ive never used an edge guide for squareness, but wouldnt mind trying this if it came with the plane. For a detailed comparison of the BUS and #7, plus discussion of jointer fences, read my review at http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/LVBevelUpJointer/index.asp, My review of the HNT Gordon Trying plane is at http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/hntGordon-S/hntGordon-st1.asp. I think this is the reason for that. I am all attentionGlaucon, Fair enough. Rankings are generated from thousands of verified customer reviews.
Since any old plane will likely work for this project, I'm looking out towards the future as well. When guys did what you are doing for a living, they had 36" long planes.
I did not feel that the extra length (3"), width (1/4") and heft of the #8 over the #7 was significant, so sold the #8. two handles for easy adjustment of the height and width of cutter head; scale ruler for precise machining. These are the best planes what Stanley ever did make. What you need depends on what you're going to be working with.
Anyway if you want to save some change this would be another way to go.
What you will find is that the circle's diameter is very sensitive to the length of the plane.
Cost wise I have seen very clean Millersfall #22s for less than 100.00 on e-bay. How long a jointer plane?
A S#8 is 2-5/8"- really pushing it for 6/4 rough stock.
I don't know who made it or how old it really is.
I've only seen a few planes- rotten and worm eaten, that I absolutely could not fix in an hour.Japanese tools have no inherent advantages- especially on western benches or in western shops.
We disagree on only one small matter: whether a vintage plane bought from eBay is a good bet to provide good quality jointing performance. One of the advantages of going with a reputable dealer is that (usually) the parts match and are genuine.
Your email address will not be published. I wouldn't waste my money or time on a newly-manufactured Stanley, Groz, Anant, or hardware store house brand plane. Historically we see a much greater difference in plane lengths than we see in Stanley planes.
Regardless of whether you T&G or chamfer, this will be helpful. It has a high cutting angle (60 degrees) and will plane the wildest grain.
Here I am simply getting one straight edge to work from.
;-), Hey Sam, have I got it wrong: I thought all Bedrocks had flat topped sides-like mine in the picture? I alsoonce owned a Stanley #8. As with the BUS, the Gordon is a low-centre-of-gravity plane.
And as to getting taken, these things are made of wood and we are woodworkers.
The LV BUS is an amazing plane.
Corrugated vs non-corrugated: probably more a matter of personal preference than anything else.
If the question is what will do this job best, then I think the answer is pretty clear (given my understanding of the task).
I am picturing the center proud of the edges creating a slight cup in the edge.
"Your grandchildren will inherit an heirloom.".
So you would be a fan of something like the Primus 701?
You say that you got a 607 on a good deal and that you like it.
It can be done, especially if you care more about quality as a user than stuff collector's care about.
They are terrific to deal with. Early Bedrocks all had the round sides. Is it OK to copy projects from the magazine? I have faith, based on experience that it is a fine option.
If you want a better plane, and one that's less costly, go with the Type 2 Bailey's. I can pick them up, slap a try square on them, take them apart, etc and then decide if a tool is worth my time and money. This gets you asquarer edge in its "as-restrained" in the floor condition. One other possibility: A Stanley Bedrock 607 (or 606 or 608).
But when it comes to straightening stock by hand, size matters more. I believe they made transitionals in this length. The two places I know of with the best prices on LN are: Fine Tool Journal http://www.finetoolj.com/LN/home.html, The Best Things http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/planes.htm. These boards are up to 16' long and show a lot of grain reversal. My present jack is a Bailey #5, ~1888 that I use regularly and paid I think $35 for.
Here's one from yesterday (a little more cleaning required) that went for $72: http://cgi.ebay.com/STANLEY-BED-ROCK-PLANE-607_W0QQitemZ250077662013QQihZ015QQcategoryZ13874QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem. planers woodworking can be used for planning wood, bamboo, lining nylon, etc. I think your experience is an unusual one. What to buy? wide application- benchtop planer is designed for planing of old, weathered, rough and worn wood, and giving it an exceptionally smooth finish. should all be fine. To an engineer, the Japanese approach to pulling while we westerners push makes an awful lot of sense.
When jointing small lengths, I reach for the Gordon.
For me personally, LN is the obvious choice of these two.
It's that 10% that may well justify the difference. For example, a little work with a filecan clean up a mildly ragged mouth, especially when it is behind the blade. Indeed, absent abuse or negliect, there is little to wear out on there planes.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google, Mit freundlichen holzbearbeitungischen Gren aus, http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/LVBevelUpJointer/index.asp, http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/hntGordon-S/hntGordon-st1.asp, http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/planes.htm, http://cgi.ebay.com/28-Sandusky-Woodworking-Jack-Plane_W0QQitemZ260079219096QQihZ016QQcategoryZ13874QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem, Editor's Letter: Technology and the future of woodworking. Rob Lee wrote once how long its effective length was- not sure if its on their website.
Doesn't seem like a good reason to spend money to me. I'm in that boat and there's nothing wrong with that. This is also true of power jointers. You will never go wrong with this one.
I think if you read my posts in this thread you will see there is no cause for it.
That is why I am looking at the more reputable brands. That plane is dead, despatched, is-no-more and has deceased.
My next article is on stock prep and watch my blog page (http://www.artsandmysteries.com) for analysis and real world stock prep in the coming weeks.
Would a low angle jointer like LVs or LNs have any advantages?
10 amp benchtop jointer features a variable speed range of 6, 000 to 11, 000 rpm and cutter head speed of 12, 000 to 22, 000 cuts per minute, allowing selection correct speed for material's size and hardness.
If you buy a Groz or Anant, you'll almost certainly have to replace the iron (and probably also the chip breaker), so you'll need to factor that cost into the total cost of the plane (for a #6 or #7, it's around $45 +/- for the iron and another $45 +/- for the chip breaker). Plus tips, advice, and special offers from Fine Woodworking. Most jointers saw hard use, as opposed to smoothers for example.If you are looking for useability over collectability, I would go with the LN.
I have a Millersfall #22 with a corrugated bottom. The LA jointers from LN and LV are, IMO, specialised planes -- i.e., large block planes. 2) To determine how straighta plane can make a board, calculatethe diameter of a circle which contacts a plane's toe, blade and heel.
A 605 (~1918) that I looked at the same time was in similar condition, and was priced at $190. Is the length of a #8 worth the extra cost?
It is slippery smooth over wooden surfaces.
You will experience orgasmic delight each time you gaze upon much less touch and use it on wood. Once you have the hang of it, it's like riding a bicycle: you never forget and it's almost automatic. My recommendation would be to spend the relatively small amount of time necessary to learn to keep the plane square to the edge. There is always the possibility of a lucky find, but a 607 in VG condition would be close to a LN in price. Weve created a full step-by-step video to take you through your own wooden plane build.
This is easier to do and will result in a tighter fit in the finished floor. More makes me jittery.
You might get lucky or you might not. Wellthe general rule of thumb for jointing edgesis "longer is better."
The first Bed Rocks appeared in 1898.
I prefer the Clifton for it's weight and if you poke around on the internet ya could get a deal. On the other hand, the original poster noted that he was replacing a plane that was a bit worn and the worse for it, and wanted to have a working tool for a job involving cherry.
(;). When two such boards are pushed together, you get good contact at both faces. It makes stock straighter faster.
You could try differentvalues for blade protrusion.
You will never regret having it. We use cookies to enhance the security, performance, functionality and for analytical and promotional activities.
That feature was "borrowed" from Miller's Falls. I don't think buying a plane sight unseen on ebay for immediate use is a good plan. I bought a new stanley bailey #5 a few years back and I am not impressed.
All the best Paddy, I think YOU are reading in your own context. You can the details HERE.
That would be deciding which side is the top ahead of the roughing operation and sticking with it.
As a nice touch the top edge of the sides are rounded over and nicely polished. As you can see from the above sampling, there are lots of choices. Woodworking for me is a hobby and fine furniture for my family is just a bonus. Ridiculous hyperbole like this: "I don't think a #8 on ebay for $9.99 that looks like it has been through the Crimean campaign will suffice" doesn't help your argument.
the pl2632k thickness planer offers a special shape allowing for easy entry in middle of work piece, Versatility: the versatile two-blade hand plane system can be converted for use with large high-speed steel blades (optional accessories required).
I am leaning towards new, not ebay, although I have found a number of old woodworking tools there with success. I always clamp the two joining pieces together and joint with a #7..the seams pretty much disappear.
My experiance is that 22 is fine.
If your boards are longer than that, then you'll probablywant a #7 or #8 sized jointer.
Irons may grow short with 100 years of sharpening, but other than that, the mouth and adjustment screws, etc.
However, is that what you want? (I haven't used the filled Norris or Spiers planes for comparisons.).
We use cookies to personalize ads for you.
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more. shipping worth considering. I argue that they have disadvantages in these circumstannces.
All the best Pat.
So first, you should use a cambered blade in your long plane to get the edge square.
Maintaining 90 degrees comes pretty natural at this point.
I dont know the brand, only that is was great gramps and it is 22 long. It's figured wood, or otherwise hard to plane wood,wherethe differenceis. I think what you want I would call a try plane, not a jointer. Does the poster who has his ina drawer a spare want to trade?
It just seems that an old jointer that has seen a lot of use would not be a big improvement over my current version.
You won't be disappointed. The low angle jointer at $295 is in the budget, I just wonder if it will do the job to my expectations.
Provided they don't use theLN to work over a cinder block like they did with an ebay block plane!
3) Lest this makes one suspicious, this is fairly easy to see in practice, and especially in match planing.
If you like collecting and reconditioning, then buying planes sight unseen may be attractive.
Do you mean during the same pass or on successive passes?
We do not accept free products from any companywe only review products we love. You should, of course, do whatever suits you.
I'm not sure I can explain it quickly.
I've never had a problem jointing an edge 90 degrees by hand even with my old relic.
Fettling took less than half an hour of effort - mostly some cleaning up of the sole.
All of their products are marvelous and beautiful tools. ECE wooden Primus Trying plane (24") $229, HNT Gordon Wooden 60 Trying Plane (18") $200, Knight Toolworks Wooden Jointer Plane (24") $165 -- $200+.
I don't recommend driving all the pressure to the top surface only. The old ones have Hock carbons and cb's and I used a Millers Falls side gauge about a dozen times an (as James said) one day I didn't and I didn't miss it.
I've often wondered what it would be like to usea Japanese style jointer.
Though I guess it's amusing.
If you're not familiar with the technique of getting a true edge on a long(ish) board, David Charlesworth's DVD,Hand Tool Techniques Part 2: Hand Planing, (available at http://www.lie-nielsen.com) is very useful and has lots of detailed "how-to" information. I'm apparently struggling with a worn out wreck and don't have the good sense to know it. LV makes nice planes, but I don't think the bevel up design is quite as good for all purpose jointing as the LN/Bedrock.Glaucon.
planing width156mm.
The bestfor that in my experienceis the Clark and Williams wooden planes which can be had with VERY fine mouths that handle irregular grain--at the expense of not being able to use the same plane for hogging.
"So, as I said before, I think the poster has several options:1. There is actually a type study by dealer Bob Kaune that allows dating them, similarly to the dating of Bailey planes.
Maybe I'll get some photos and let the experts debate.
Ive never used an edge guide for squareness, but wouldnt mind trying this if it came with the plane. For a detailed comparison of the BUS and #7, plus discussion of jointer fences, read my review at http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/LVBevelUpJointer/index.asp, My review of the HNT Gordon Trying plane is at http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/hntGordon-S/hntGordon-st1.asp. I think this is the reason for that. I am all attentionGlaucon, Fair enough. Rankings are generated from thousands of verified customer reviews.
Since any old plane will likely work for this project, I'm looking out towards the future as well. When guys did what you are doing for a living, they had 36" long planes.
I did not feel that the extra length (3"), width (1/4") and heft of the #8 over the #7 was significant, so sold the #8. two handles for easy adjustment of the height and width of cutter head; scale ruler for precise machining. These are the best planes what Stanley ever did make. What you need depends on what you're going to be working with.
Anyway if you want to save some change this would be another way to go.
What you will find is that the circle's diameter is very sensitive to the length of the plane.
Cost wise I have seen very clean Millersfall #22s for less than 100.00 on e-bay. How long a jointer plane?
A S#8 is 2-5/8"- really pushing it for 6/4 rough stock.
I don't know who made it or how old it really is.
I've only seen a few planes- rotten and worm eaten, that I absolutely could not fix in an hour.Japanese tools have no inherent advantages- especially on western benches or in western shops.
We disagree on only one small matter: whether a vintage plane bought from eBay is a good bet to provide good quality jointing performance. One of the advantages of going with a reputable dealer is that (usually) the parts match and are genuine.
Your email address will not be published. I wouldn't waste my money or time on a newly-manufactured Stanley, Groz, Anant, or hardware store house brand plane. Historically we see a much greater difference in plane lengths than we see in Stanley planes.
Regardless of whether you T&G or chamfer, this will be helpful. It has a high cutting angle (60 degrees) and will plane the wildest grain.
Here I am simply getting one straight edge to work from.
;-), Hey Sam, have I got it wrong: I thought all Bedrocks had flat topped sides-like mine in the picture? I alsoonce owned a Stanley #8. As with the BUS, the Gordon is a low-centre-of-gravity plane.
And as to getting taken, these things are made of wood and we are woodworkers.
The LV BUS is an amazing plane.
Corrugated vs non-corrugated: probably more a matter of personal preference than anything else.
If the question is what will do this job best, then I think the answer is pretty clear (given my understanding of the task).
I am picturing the center proud of the edges creating a slight cup in the edge.
"Your grandchildren will inherit an heirloom.".
So you would be a fan of something like the Primus 701?
You say that you got a 607 on a good deal and that you like it.
It can be done, especially if you care more about quality as a user than stuff collector's care about.
They are terrific to deal with. Early Bedrocks all had the round sides. Is it OK to copy projects from the magazine? I have faith, based on experience that it is a fine option.
If you want a better plane, and one that's less costly, go with the Type 2 Bailey's. I can pick them up, slap a try square on them, take them apart, etc and then decide if a tool is worth my time and money. This gets you asquarer edge in its "as-restrained" in the floor condition. One other possibility: A Stanley Bedrock 607 (or 606 or 608).
But when it comes to straightening stock by hand, size matters more. I believe they made transitionals in this length. The two places I know of with the best prices on LN are: Fine Tool Journal http://www.finetoolj.com/LN/home.html, The Best Things http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/planes.htm. These boards are up to 16' long and show a lot of grain reversal. My present jack is a Bailey #5, ~1888 that I use regularly and paid I think $35 for.
Here's one from yesterday (a little more cleaning required) that went for $72: http://cgi.ebay.com/STANLEY-BED-ROCK-PLANE-607_W0QQitemZ250077662013QQihZ015QQcategoryZ13874QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem. planers woodworking can be used for planning wood, bamboo, lining nylon, etc. I think your experience is an unusual one. What to buy? wide application- benchtop planer is designed for planing of old, weathered, rough and worn wood, and giving it an exceptionally smooth finish. should all be fine. To an engineer, the Japanese approach to pulling while we westerners push makes an awful lot of sense.
When jointing small lengths, I reach for the Gordon.
For me personally, LN is the obvious choice of these two.
It's that 10% that may well justify the difference. For example, a little work with a filecan clean up a mildly ragged mouth, especially when it is behind the blade. Indeed, absent abuse or negliect, there is little to wear out on there planes.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google, Mit freundlichen holzbearbeitungischen Gren aus, http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/LVBevelUpJointer/index.asp, http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/hntGordon-S/hntGordon-st1.asp, http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/planes.htm, http://cgi.ebay.com/28-Sandusky-Woodworking-Jack-Plane_W0QQitemZ260079219096QQihZ016QQcategoryZ13874QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem, Editor's Letter: Technology and the future of woodworking. Rob Lee wrote once how long its effective length was- not sure if its on their website.
Doesn't seem like a good reason to spend money to me. I'm in that boat and there's nothing wrong with that. This is also true of power jointers. You will never go wrong with this one.
I think if you read my posts in this thread you will see there is no cause for it.
That is why I am looking at the more reputable brands. That plane is dead, despatched, is-no-more and has deceased.
My next article is on stock prep and watch my blog page (http://www.artsandmysteries.com) for analysis and real world stock prep in the coming weeks.
Would a low angle jointer like LVs or LNs have any advantages?
10 amp benchtop jointer features a variable speed range of 6, 000 to 11, 000 rpm and cutter head speed of 12, 000 to 22, 000 cuts per minute, allowing selection correct speed for material's size and hardness.
If you buy a Groz or Anant, you'll almost certainly have to replace the iron (and probably also the chip breaker), so you'll need to factor that cost into the total cost of the plane (for a #6 or #7, it's around $45 +/- for the iron and another $45 +/- for the chip breaker). Plus tips, advice, and special offers from Fine Woodworking. Most jointers saw hard use, as opposed to smoothers for example.If you are looking for useability over collectability, I would go with the LN.
I have a Millersfall #22 with a corrugated bottom. The LA jointers from LN and LV are, IMO, specialised planes -- i.e., large block planes. 2) To determine how straighta plane can make a board, calculatethe diameter of a circle which contacts a plane's toe, blade and heel.
A 605 (~1918) that I looked at the same time was in similar condition, and was priced at $190. Is the length of a #8 worth the extra cost?
It is slippery smooth over wooden surfaces.
You will experience orgasmic delight each time you gaze upon much less touch and use it on wood. Once you have the hang of it, it's like riding a bicycle: you never forget and it's almost automatic. My recommendation would be to spend the relatively small amount of time necessary to learn to keep the plane square to the edge. There is always the possibility of a lucky find, but a 607 in VG condition would be close to a LN in price. Weve created a full step-by-step video to take you through your own wooden plane build.
This is easier to do and will result in a tighter fit in the finished floor. More makes me jittery.
You might get lucky or you might not. Wellthe general rule of thumb for jointing edgesis "longer is better." The first Bed Rocks appeared in 1898.
I prefer the Clifton for it's weight and if you poke around on the internet ya could get a deal. On the other hand, the original poster noted that he was replacing a plane that was a bit worn and the worse for it, and wanted to have a working tool for a job involving cherry.
(;). When two such boards are pushed together, you get good contact at both faces. It makes stock straighter faster.
You could try differentvalues for blade protrusion.
You will never regret having it. We use cookies to enhance the security, performance, functionality and for analytical and promotional activities.
That feature was "borrowed" from Miller's Falls. I don't think buying a plane sight unseen on ebay for immediate use is a good plan. I bought a new stanley bailey #5 a few years back and I am not impressed.
All the best Paddy, I think YOU are reading in your own context. You can the details HERE.
That would be deciding which side is the top ahead of the roughing operation and sticking with it.
As a nice touch the top edge of the sides are rounded over and nicely polished. As you can see from the above sampling, there are lots of choices. Woodworking for me is a hobby and fine furniture for my family is just a bonus. Ridiculous hyperbole like this: "I don't think a #8 on ebay for $9.99 that looks like it has been through the Crimean campaign will suffice" doesn't help your argument.
the pl2632k thickness planer offers a special shape allowing for easy entry in middle of work piece, Versatility: the versatile two-blade hand plane system can be converted for use with large high-speed steel blades (optional accessories required).
I am leaning towards new, not ebay, although I have found a number of old woodworking tools there with success. I always clamp the two joining pieces together and joint with a #7..the seams pretty much disappear.
My experiance is that 22 is fine.
If your boards are longer than that, then you'll probablywant a #7 or #8 sized jointer.
Irons may grow short with 100 years of sharpening, but other than that, the mouth and adjustment screws, etc.
However, is that what you want? (I haven't used the filled Norris or Spiers planes for comparisons.).
We use cookies to personalize ads for you.
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more. shipping worth considering. I argue that they have disadvantages in these circumstannces.
All the best Pat.
So first, you should use a cambered blade in your long plane to get the edge square.
Maintaining 90 degrees comes pretty natural at this point.
I dont know the brand, only that is was great gramps and it is 22 long. It's figured wood, or otherwise hard to plane wood,wherethe differenceis. I think what you want I would call a try plane, not a jointer. Does the poster who has his ina drawer a spare want to trade?
It just seems that an old jointer that has seen a lot of use would not be a big improvement over my current version.
You won't be disappointed. The low angle jointer at $295 is in the budget, I just wonder if it will do the job to my expectations.
Provided they don't use theLN to work over a cinder block like they did with an ebay block plane!
3) Lest this makes one suspicious, this is fairly easy to see in practice, and especially in match planing.
If you like collecting and reconditioning, then buying planes sight unseen may be attractive.
Do you mean during the same pass or on successive passes?
We do not accept free products from any companywe only review products we love. You should, of course, do whatever suits you.
I'm not sure I can explain it quickly.
I've never had a problem jointing an edge 90 degrees by hand even with my old relic.
Fettling took less than half an hour of effort - mostly some cleaning up of the sole.
All of their products are marvelous and beautiful tools. ECE wooden Primus Trying plane (24") $229, HNT Gordon Wooden 60 Trying Plane (18") $200, Knight Toolworks Wooden Jointer Plane (24") $165 -- $200+.
I don't recommend driving all the pressure to the top surface only. The old ones have Hock carbons and cb's and I used a Millers Falls side gauge about a dozen times an (as James said) one day I didn't and I didn't miss it.