He fully expected to praise the harmony of mass, the purity of form but was to be confused by the arbitrariness of Gothic adornment. With special effects and a clever use of color, the west faade of the cathedral will be brought to life and shown in a very different light. In addition, Content editor and Proofreader of Anthology texts and manuscripts for publishing. It was the construction of the nave that turned it into a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Legal notice | Altogether, some 35,000 parachute and glider troops were involved in the operation. I found a town very popular with German tourists. Many of his writings have not ever been translated. Are they also protected by UNESCO and cannot be altered? During the height of the French Revolution, there were even plans to tear the spire down on the grounds that it hurt the principle of equality. War Artists Advisory Committee commission. The Grand Ile started out as the Roman camp of Argentoratum, and developed itself into the free city of Strasbourg. Bishop Werner von Habsburg got one thing right: He backed the right horse - or rather the right duke, when the struggle for the imperial German throne between the victorious Henry II of Bavaria and the defeated Herman II, Duke of Swabia spread as far as Strasbourg. Strasbourg, Grande-le and Neustadt comprises the medieval historic centre of Strasbourg including its Cathedral and its German-built New Town. Several commemorative events began already last September. There is apparently a nice walk by the river to reach that area, but with the river in flood and the start of heavy rain to match the wind, we retreated. The octagonal base of the spire was added in 1399 by Johannes Hultz from Koln and today is the symbol of Strasbourg. Strasbourg is mostly famous for politics, being both the seat of the Council of Europe and of the European Parliament, but the city's history and culture are at least as noteworthy. As things are a bit spread out in Strasbourg I found a day ticket for the buses and trams invaluable at 3.60 euros. (Goethe does not include this in his essay). document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. We spent most of our time wandering around trying to avoid spending our whole budget in bakeries and sweet shops, there are a lot of them here. There are plenty of restaurants too and its all quite touristy. While these are very important, how often is the Architect of the cathedral considered? I am very grateful for this translation in order to read Goethes reflections on the cathedral in Strasbourg and the man who had the vision for it, Erwin von Steinbach. I continued on foot to the bulky St. Thomas Church, dating from 1196. Declaring this year to mark the 1,000th anniversary of the cathedral is nevertheless arbitrary, as only the foundation of that construction has survived to this day. One of the most recent translations of Goethes works is. Prussian architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel called the faade a "stone harp." Urban continuity is probably there and the styles are certainly distinct, but on the other hand, this might affect the integrity of the WHS. Now, over Easter, I stayed in Strasbourg for two nights on a proper visit. (1986) by Ellen von and Ernest Nardroff, Professor of German at the University of New York. In his essay, On German Architecture, Goethe begins with a pilgrimage to the tombstone of Erwin von Steinbach who died in 1318. At 142 meters (466 feet), it was the world's tallest building in the Middle Ages, from 1647 to 1874, until it was surpassed by St. Nikolai's Church in Hamburg. The architecture reminded me of what survived from imperial Berlin and is also similar to the monumental square in Munich once proposed as a WHS. (LogOut/ I liked the Vauban Barrage a lot and enjoyed the views of the Ponts Couverts from the terrace on top. Sadly however the disappointments kept on coming, as the trams were also stopped due to the protest, meaning our planned journey up to the European Parliament was abandoned. By downloading or embedding any media, you agree to the terms and conditions of the IWM Non Commercial Licence, including your use of the attribution statement specified by IWM. The History? now but still a great place to amble around. Here you find many half timbered buildings, Renaissance palaces and especially the hospital. (1986). Strasbourg is one of my favorite cities; so much history- French and German! Finally, in Goethes essay, he sensed the genius of the builderAs in the works of eternal nature, down to the smallest fiber, all is form, all serves the wholeMy soul is touched by the blissful calm of a spirit who can look down on such a creation and say, as did God, It is good(6)! Approach it and experience the profoundest feeling of truth and beauty of proportion, sprung from a strong, rough-hewn German soul(9). The great German poet of the eighteenth century, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe did consider Erwin von Steinbach, the German-born architect who designed and built the Gothic cathedral in Strasbourg, France, in his essay On German Architecture which is found in Essays on Art and Literature (1772). In front of the clock is the marvelous Pillar of Angels, which, in a very original manner, represents the Last Judgment. Change), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Focused on developing instructional methods to help students achieve linguistic and cultural proficiency in a second language classroom. The area known as Petite-France with its picturesque houses, the lovely canal, the imposing Notre-Dame cathedral and of course the little alleyways running everywhere. Having changed hands between Germany and France several times, Strasbourg still has a distinctly Germanic flavour, and the island-like Old Town has preserved its medieval core to a remarkable degree. Dwight. There are cheesy boat trips on offer here, like in Amsterdam or Paris. Goethe states that it is when he is free from worry and fear and restless from tranquility; then his spirit is inspired (8). I am not sure how convincing these two arguments are. Change). I too became one of those ants crawling about the Strasbourg Cathedral who neither knew nor contemplated the name of the Great Architect. Despite it being out of season, the whole area was reasonably busy, certainly not overrun but busy enough to have some atmosphere. Mass was going on so I couldn't go around much. While Strasbourg is a delightful city to visit and walk around the only building of real individual OUV is the Cathedral. If you look for a city that reflect the late medieval or the Renaissance period Colmar and Besanon for example are more homogeneous, splendid representatives of their period. Here the stained glass seemed duller, less light entered the cathedral and thus it felt dark and dismal by comparison. What attracts the eye immediately are the huge and pretty organ and the various stained glass windows. Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. New York: Suhrkamp Publishers. Other attractions include an 18-meter (59-foot) astronomical clock dating from 1574, one of the largest in the world, located in the cathedral's south transept, as well as the unique three-story high "Angel's Column" depicting the Last Judgment. On Easter morning I started with a walk along the River Ill. The extension is justified by showing urban continuity across cultures as well as representing German imperial historicist architecture destroyed elsewhere. Check out the link below for my full video review! We then headed to the Neustadt but were thwarted by a strong police presence for an ongoing march by the Gillet Jaune protesters. My wife and I stayed for a week in Strasbourg in August 2017. I visited Strasbourg a couple of weeks ago during my holidays in the Alsace. IWM collections. It's an extremely beautiful city, not too touristy, much more affordable than other French cities (especially Paris), and there's quite a bit to see. We use cookies to improve our service for you. Your opinion can help us make it better. European historicist architecture might not be represented in Germany, but there are already several such examples on the list from other European countries (Paris, Vienna and Budapest, among others). Before the construction of the cathedral, several churches were built on this spot, at least as far back as the year 728. The famed Astronomical Clock was popular but underwhelming. One of the oldest hospitals in France it forms a whole city block with the hospital gate from the 14th century, the last remaining gate of the old ramparts, the hospital chapel and a huge hospital building from 1725 that replaces an older building destroyed by fire. The current cathedral actually dates back to 1190.

Among them many modern buildings with no historical connection or asthetic value. 1 locations, The site has The area can easily be accessed by foot from the historic centre of the Grande-Ile, however, most of the buildings are closed to visitors. We marveled at the Astronomical clock, Lhorloge de Trois Rois, built in 1350 which offers a view of different stages of life, which are personified by a child, a teenager, an adult and an old man, who pass before Death. The West front, created between 1277 and 1439, is a true work of art. And though the throngs crawling about it like ants know nothing of your name, you are like the Great Architect who piled up mountains into the clouds (Essays, 3).

Black and white timber-framed buildings adorn the streets. The first stone of the Strasbourg Cathedral was laid 1,000 years ago. In its basement you can visit the medieval wine cellar that is still used to support the hospital, a practice also still in use at the hospital of Beaune and a very French way to support a charitable cause! Accessibility Statement | The 'Blitz' from the German termBlitzkrieg ('lightning war') was the sustained campaign of aerial bombing attacks on British towns and cities carried out by the Luftwaffe (German Air Force) from September 1940 until May 1941. My daughter Kalie and I spent much time admiring the architecture and took the 330 steps up the spiral staircase to the top for a breathtaking view of Strasbourg, The Vosges and the Black Forest of Germany (of Hansel and Gretel!).

In 2019, I visited the cathedral for the second time. The figures in the richly decorated portal could fill story books. The celebrations will culminate this summer with one highlight being the "light and sound" display that will take place every evening from July 4 until September 20. In his essay On German Architecture, Goethe reminds us that Art is creative long before it is beautiful. The sandstone from the Vosges used in the building gives the cathedral its characteristic pink hue. Gearey, John. Strasbourg and its cathedral underwent many years of upheaval and strife between Germany and France. (LogOut/ In his view, the French or the Italians were still imitating old architectural forms. The Neustadt, or New Town, is located to the north of the Old Town and is characterized by wide avenues, parks, mansions, 19th-century buildings such as the University, and many diplomatic missions, as it is located between the Old Town and the international quarter, with the seats of the Council of Europe and the European Parliament. Non-Commercial educational use for the purpose of teaching and instruction, including internal training. It enabled me to visit the Court of Human Rights, the European Parliament and the Council of Europe buildings in addition to Vauban's barrage and Petite France as well as the cathedal, churches and palaces on the Grand Ile.

I brought my husband on this return trip to see this incredible city where my ancestors once lived and toured the interior this time. We had a look around the Republic area which I enjoyed especially in contrast to the narrow streets and timber buildings of the Grande Ile. One has to be a real art enthusiast to enjoy this room after room. You erected your own, a magnificent one. Parts of the buildings leading up to the cathedral are bomb damaged, and the cathedral itself appears to be slightly damaged. 2022 Deutsche Welle | You can embed media or download low resolution images free of charge for private and non-commercial use under the IWM Non-Commercial Licence. Conversely, the Baroque architecture as in Palais Rohan (which houses three museums) is typically French reminiscent of such buildings in Paris. The Petit France is also a cute part of town. The tower was saved, however, when in May of the same year citizens of Strasbourg crowned it with a giant tin Phrygian cap, the kind of hat popular in Revolutionary France. Privacy Policy | Firstly rows of half-timbered houses overlooking cobbled streets/ waterways. But while the area around the magnificent cathedral and along the southern shore of the island refers well to this description you have two walk just a few blocks north to find a mix from very different periods including buildings on the 19th and 20th century. However, the newly designed cathedral that one marvels today was not the original. We first explored the Grande Ile, which is undeniably pretty, especially around the Petite-France area. The Religious significance and representation? Use on websites that are primarily information-led, research-oriented and not behind a paywall. A pretty 18th-century palace that houses three museums. The first version was built around 1015 in a Romanesque style proposed by Bishop Werner von Habsburg.

Also, the Asian tour groups know how to find it. This is the main tourist area with pretty Fachwerk houses and streets named after the guilds. Although the initial intention was to create a cathedral reaching up to the sky, the overall impression is undermined by the massive, dark and cave-like altar which was built earlier. Take a look at the beta version of dw.com. In the cathedral, I also like a lot the column of the angels, Very interesting post. The architecture is of monumental scale and aimed at openly demonstrating the contested Prussian rule. From here you get a very good impression of the height and dominance of the Cathedral over the town. For this item, that is: IWM Art.IWM ART LD 5249. image: a view down a street in the French border city of Strasbourg towards the cathedral. Every year there is a sound and light show projected on the cathedral facade which is really worthwhile seeing. College Professor with twenty-two years teaching in English, French and ESL classrooms of diverse International environments. The design of the cathedral became very influential in Germany. We loved our short visit to the Cathedral and we also part of the aunts crawling around it!! (LogOut/ The entrance was free today, and I choose the Museum of Beaux Arts. It has inspired Cologne Cathedral and indeed they look alike apart from the exterior colour.

We're not done yet! From there a footpath starts into the Petite France neighbourhood. As nice as the concept seems that the old city is congruent with the Grande le the reality is different: The old city stretches along the southern shore of the island on both sides of the river while the north of the island is from various periods. The Musee d'oeuvre de Notre Dame is a must-see, exhibiting beautiful sculptures from the cathedral as well as other medieval art. | Mobile version. I had visited it before in 1981 with my parents. When is a mans creative force most active? The 'Market Garden' plan employed all three divisions of First Allied Airborne Army. Secondly the massive Gothic Cathedral. Strasbourg changed hands several times between France and Germany in the course of history and the architecture reflects these current changes: the medieval half-timbered houses are typically Alsatian but certainly more related to such architecture in Germany (like in central and southern Germany) than in France (like in Rouen). While Goethes poems on nature, romance, science and his great novel Faust have long been available to the English-speaking audience, his writings on art and literature, as in Essays, are less familiar. In 1015, Werner eventually laid the first stone of a cathedral on the present site of the Strasbourg Cathedral. His work stands before you. I am very grateful for this translation in order to read Goethes reflections on the cathedral in Strasbourg and the man who had the vision for it, Erwin von Steinbach. The height of this spire was unequaled until the 19th century: it was the world's tallest building from 1647 to 1874. When one visits the grand cathedrals of France in Paris, Strasbourg, Reims, Chartres, what is their first impression? Some of the most significant buildings surround the Place de la Republique (formerly Kaiserplatz). Even more impressive is the Rosetta window on the west faade, covering a 15-meter (49-foot) diameter and consisting of 16 double rose petals. One of the most recent translations of Goethes works is Essays on Art and Literature (1986) by Ellen von and Ernest Nardroff, Professor of German at the University of New York. The gothic Cathedral was started in the late 12th century. Already kilometers before entering the old town by car, the cathedrals spire dominates the skyline. As always when I visit a UNESCO site I tried to figure out the exact parts forming the inscription.In Strasbourg that is quite easy: it is the Grande le surrounded by the two arms of the river Ill . Use on personal social media accounts, provided the individuals are not promoting themselves commercially. Many of his writings have not ever been translated. After the annexation of the city by Louis XIV of France in 1681, the Cathedral was returned to the Catholics. MY FRENCHQUEST: My Year in Review2019-2020, Goethe: How his diverse interest and studies influenced his writings My French Quest, The Truth and Beauty: Finding the Words of Jesus in Works of Englands GreatPoets, My Parisian Journey: An American inParis, The Relationship between Philosophy andRhetoric, My Parisian Journey: A Respite in thePyrenees, Classical Rhetoric in the Middle Ages and theRenaissance, My Journey to the French Language: The Quest of JulesClaire, Literary Rhetoric in Greece and in the OldTestament. In his mind, the edifices of the Gothic style were indefinite, disorganized, unnatural, patched-together, tacked-on, overladen. From here we looked around the area near the Cathedral, leaving the church itself for last. 3.450 Average It's striking just how different the planning, layout and architecture is over here, representing the development of new European ideas, particularly after the revolutions of 1848. You can find more information in our data protection declaration. Personal use for non-commercial research and private study and other uses under the UKs exceptions to copyright and those exceptions to copyright in place where the user is located. This was a mistake however, as during this period the weather changed and high winds meant that the viewing terrace on the Cathedral closed and we missed out on this. Free exhibitions held in venues, which do not charge an entry fee. The imposing structure of the Strasbourg Cathedral can best be admired from afar. It is supposed to form the old city dating from the 15th to the 18th century. What a sight this must have been during the Middle Ages when the area wasnt as built up as it is now. Translated by Ellen von and Ernest H. Nardroff.

Translator of German and French texts. Especially the Cathedral, or Mnster, is very impressive. 52 connections. It was regarded by Goethe as the finest Cathedral in Europe, and its main edifice certainly ranks up there with the best. Before Goethe had visited the cathedral, he had preconceived ideas of the Gothic style based upon what others had said about it. We visited Strasbourg today and whilst I enjoyed what we saw very much, I left feeling a little disappointed. France, History, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Literature, Strasbourg, Translation. The decorative fine sandstone columns actually do look like the strings of a harp. The British people were now resigned to the fact that Hitler had to be stopped by force. The building itself is beautiful as well. On the other hand you find just south across the river of the Grande le the Krutenau, originally the fishers' quarter dating from the 13 century and one of the nicest areas of the city. When Britainwent to waron 3 September 1939 there was none of the 'flag-waving patriotism' of August 1914. After several fires, the last one being in 1176, the church was built from scratch. The area is adjacent to the Grande-Ile, but its style is inherently different. Yet new evidence shows that baptisms were performed here even earlier, in Late Antiquity. A recently discovered four-by-four-meter (13 x 13 ft)baptismal font is new evidence that christenings took place here in ancient times and records list a bishop of Strasbourg, called Ansualdus, in the year 614. While Goethes poems on nature, romance, science and his great novel, have long been available to the English-speaking audience, his writings on art and literature, as in, are less familiar. The cathedral is therefore strictly speaking only 825 years old, and not 1,000, but in the Alsace region, like elsewhere, any excuse for a celebration is good enough. Copyright 2020 by Robyn Lowrie. May be quoted in part or full only with attribution to Robyn Lowrie (www.frenchquest.com). When he realized that the tombstone no longer existed, Goethe declares: Yet you need no memorial!

Final Allied Offensive, North West Europe, Second World War, Notre Dame Cathedral, Strasbourg, Bas-Rhin, France. Inside is a fine astronomical clock, which like every other one I have seen is achingly under whelming to watch in motion on the hour. Im glad you were able to visit! The ensemble on the island Grand Ile also consists of several old churches and a network of (post-)medieval streets. Downloading audio-visual for non-commercial offline listening or viewing. It has one 142m high filigree spire. 77 Votes After the First World War, Alsace once again became part of France only to be invaded by German troops during the Second World War. The highlight of this WHS is surely the tall Cathedral.

If you do visit try to have at least one glass of Alsatian wine, the main varieties to look out for are Guwurtztraminer (my personal favourite), Muscat and Riesling but there are plenty of others to fit your own palette. I have to admit perhaps my favourite places to visit are these medium sized European cities, and Strasbourg was definitely well worth a weekend break. The cathedral sustained bombing damage in 1944 during British and US air raids. Loved the quote and the building mountains into the clouds. It was an important commercial centre in the Middle Ages. This proposed extension should incorporate the historicist architecture of imperial Prussia into the Straburg WHS. On the map this seems a very elegant and convincing solution. Of course we still visited the Cathedral, which is lovely, but somehow just missed the mark for me. This was my second visit to Strasbourg. I have visited this WHS for more than 30 times since I also work there. However, when he actually stood before the edifice, his soul was suffused with a feeling of immense grandeur in which he was able to savor and enjoy, but by no means understand and explain (5). As a WHS, Strasbourg is an interesting city to visit, but in terms of my enjoyment today, I suspect I caught the city on a bad day, or it caught me on a bad day, not sure which. The renovation began at the end of the 12th century by Erwin von Steinbach and was constructed by the same stonemasons who had worked on the gothic cathedral in Chartres, France. I was also, as Goethe describes, a feeble esthete who will feel forever giddy in the presence of the colossus of the cathedral. Above this are the apostles who walk before Christ.

An exception are the municipal baths, which I believe are also included. Recently, Strasbourg was extended as well to cover another area, the German-developed Neustadt or New Town, located across the river from the medieval city. Also on a culinary note Strasbourg gets high points in my book for being situated in perhaps my favourite wine region, and I really enjoyed the aromatic white wines on offer. Most of this building was destroyed by fire. The grandeur of the edifice? Change), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Contact Apart from Bains de Cluny in Paris, it is probably the best of its kind in all of France. Ardent scholar of French history, literature and art. Having visited Metz the day before, I found I preferred the Cathedral there. It has numerous paintings by well-known Italian and North European painters from the 15-18th century. The Trio ticket was good value for up to 3 people for 24 hours, for EUR 6.90.

I really enjoyed my weekend in Strasbourg and its continuous development is a great testament to how many European cities have evolved, incorporating many artistic styles and practical uses. On a sunny day, I would suggest going for a stroll in the Orangerie Park especially in Spring when several White Storks can be seen nesting and roosting. The city centre is on an Island (Grande Isle) and its main assets are two fold, hopefully shown in the photo. It really is astonishingly high, very impressive indeed. I had counted that as a WHS visit but always felt a bit bad about this because I had no memories of it at all. On my next visit, hopefully in the near future, I will see the Strasbourg cathedral in a different light; not through the eyes of a tourist, but through the lens which considers the great architect of the Strasbourg cathedral, Erwin von Steinbach, and I will heed Goethes words: No one will dislodge Erwin from his pedestal. A team coming from Chartres suggested a high gothic design. Alternatively, search more than 1 million objects from